If you are ordering sawn Waney Edge Timber that we have in stock, then you should receive your timber within around 6 working days from placing your order.

If ordering waney edge shelves, waney edge sills, tables, desktops, worktops or bartops then these are all made to order and will take longer.

just email us to ask what our current lead time is on our orders.

Yes!

We can make Bespoke furniture and still post this direct to your door depending upon the size and where you live.

We currently have a lead time of around 4 weeks depending upon how busy we are, this is constantly changing so please email us to find out what out current lead time is.

Yes!

If you choose the oak slab that you like and tell me the dimensions you require, i will then flatten and shape the oak slab, wrap it up and post it to you.

All you need to do is add the legs and some oil or wax.

For large slabs we may only be able to deliver these within 80 miles of our workshop.

please message us for a price

All of our large sawn slabs vary, most are straight some are great and a few are slightly cupped or twisted, we will normally sort out all the cupped or twisted slabs and these will be cut up for other timber sales.

No big sawn slab is naturaly plumb flat, these are unfinished sawn slabs that require finishing off. Remember you will always need to buy a thicker and wider slab than what you will want to end up with as you will genrally lose 15mm of thickness flattening off a large slab

The term 'sawn' refers to the saw marks that will be on the slab or timber and are from where they were cut with a bandsaw from the log.

Sawn slabs are rarely plumb flat and are usually a little uneven and are sold as unfinished slabs or timbers.

These are easy to finish off using the right tools and correct amount of elbow grease.

On all of our sawn slabs if needed we can supply a flattening and sansing service to save you time.

Moisture content or Mc. is very important to know, the lowest and most stable for inside joinery will be our kiln dried or KD timber, this is normally at arounf 12% Mc.

Then for inside or outside joinery where a little movement or shrinkage is ok, there is our well Air dried timber AD or WAD (WAD is airdried for longer)

Then for outside joinery we have fresh cut seasoned timbers.

The wettest will be green timber. these are cut from a freshly felled tree.

an average the Mc. of these timbers are as follows:

KD; 9/12%

WAD: 12/15%

AD: 15/18%

AD from fresh cut seasoned logs:18/35%

GREEN up to 100%

Yes!

We can supply you with locally cut sustainable timbers, cut and milled within 80 miles of where we are based.

To clean Your wooden chopping boards you can either wash these under a tap with warm water and a mild detergent (not bleach) and use a soft cloth or sponge (not the abrasive side) then dry with a tea towel and allow it to air dry flat away from direct sunlight.

Never leave your wooden chopping boards to soak in water or put these in a dishwasher. These are naturally antibacterial so you just need to clean the working area and simply maintain the condition of the board.

To keep your wooden chopping boards in perfect condition it is important to keep them maintained. Once the oil starts to wear off or once a year, all you need to do is re-apply some mineral oil or just add some of our board butter (soon to be for sale on our website) Just apply all over the board with a dry clean cloth, leave for a few minutes then wipe off. The more you use your chopping board the more regularly you may need to do this. it's that simple.

How to oil your oak

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For this I use a clean sponge or lint free cloth. Its best to use some nitrile gloves for this, don’t use cheap latex gloves as these will dissolve with the oil.

This can be a messy job so probably best to do outside on the lawn or lay a plastic dust sheet down.

(Not on a patio as stone is porous and will absorb any spilt oil.)

Step 1.

Either pour a little oil onto the oak or just dip the sponge in to the oil then apply to the oak, just rub the oil up and down with the grain working quickly to start.

Once you have oiled all faces and edge of the oak, do the same again. Just keep applying the oak with the oil not flooding it but enough to make the surface wet.

Do this at least 4 more times continually. What this does is allows the oak to soak up the oil into the wood.

Step 2.

Next get a clean lint free cloth or an old cotton t shirt and make a square the size of a dinner plate. Now buff off all the excess oil. This will need to be done within 5 minutes of the last application of oil.

If you leave it too long the oil may become very sticky.

If you get this problem just add some more oil and buff off immediately. You want to remove all excess oil so that the oak now looks matt and not glossy or wet.

After any application of oil do not put the wet cloths straight into the bin, there is a danger that these could combust on very hot days. You can either lay these out to dry or simply put them in a bowl of water.

Now leave the oak until totally dry.

Step 3.

You may need to very lightly sand the oak at this stage as often the first application of oil will rise the grain and make the oak feel a little rough.

Just rub lightly with some sand paper that is 180 grit or up to 240 grit (never use wire wool as this will react to the tannins in the wood and the oak will go black)

After sanding wipe any dust off with a tack cloth or clean cotton rag.

Step 4.

Now apply a single coat of oil. Keep rubbing the oil into the oak in a circular motion as if you’re polishing the oak with the oil. Then leave for 5 minutes and buff off all excess oil until the oak goes matt with a clean cotton or lint free cloth.

Leave for about 6 hours or until dry and repeat step 4 a couple of times again.

Danish oil is good for inside use, if the oak is being used outside you can use Tung oil or if a very tough oil is needed then try Le Tonkinois varnish. https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/

We recommend that the window sills are first cut to size and check that they fit correctly.

Then re-sand the cut ends to 150 grit, this is to seal the end grain.

Next, make sure to oil or varnish the bottom and the ends with at least 2 or three coats of your chosen finish. You can also finish off the tops at this stage to save time later.

It's important to seal the ends and underside to protect the window sills from absorbing any moisture from the walls. Once the window sills are fitted, we would recommend finishing the top before plastering or filling any gaps to help protect the oak from staining.